NZ 2010 Christchurch to Picton

We are soon to be flying the silver bird to New Zealand. "Why?", you ask. Just look at the dreadful winter we are having:

Besides we will be finishing what we started in 2006;

For those of you who asked to see our 2010 route, here it is. If possible we will be updating it along the way. For the curious, there is an elevation indicator on the right top corner of the map.

The blog has been broken up into pages;
NZ 2010 South Island - Christchurch to Picton
NZ 2010, Route 52 Masterton to Napier
NZ 2010, Hawkes bay - Napier to Gisbourne
NZ 2010, East Cape and Rotorua - Gisbourne to Tauranga
NZ 2010, Coromandel Peninsula - Tauranga to Auckland

Tuesday, 9 February 2010 ((UTC-8:00) Pacific Standard)

Bike boxes are in the car, duffels are by the door, and the carry-on bags are still open for loading. Feels good to be ready. Ferry reservation for 9 AM tomorrow, Flight out at 6:45, and the Olympic torch will be past Richmond. The countdown begins. Dinner with Kaitlin and a good nights sleep before setting out on our adventure.

Checked the weather in Christchurch, 15/20 C today, 17/20 C on Friday when we land. Perfect cycling weather. Auckland will be 18/25 C, not too warm, a good thing.

Yeah!!!Tough January but this will make it all worth it. We have at least had great weather to train. Celebrated my almost 5 week reprieve from work with a lovely walk to Willow's Beach and Cattle Point with Steve; beautiful day and could see Chatham and Discovery islands in their glory.

12 February 2010 Auckland Airport ((UTC+12:00) Auckland, Wellington)

Well, it's been over 27 hours since we left Victoria with only intermittent sleep...one more flight to our final destination. Decided to take my copy of Biciklo on the ferry to inspire me and inspire me it did. Instead of being engrossed with the landscape of the Gulf Islands and active pass as I usually am, I sat ravenously reading the tales of Hannah and David and even sister, Elizabeth, as they pedal through foreign lands and new landscapes. What a way to start the trip. Stopped at Steve's Aunt Ann's place in Richmond a yummy lunch and a chat before we head to the airport. Signs of the Olympics are everywhere and we pass the speed skating oval on the way in. Part of me regrets we won't be around for the Olympics, that despite the hype and security, it is an amazing display of athletic achievement. Still, I'm mostly happy to be escaping it and the rain. Managed to snag four seats together for the flight so got a few winks after watching Eagle and Shark, a quirky NZ movie and then Bright Star for the second time.
As we disembarked from the international terminal and walked to domestic one, the sun was starting to rise and there was a strong scent of lemons in the air. That and the fairly large presence of Maori and Pacific Islanders indicated that we had finally arrived!
mel in Auckland

A great day with Gordon and Libby. Assembling the bikes in the morning.

Gord & Mel

Gordon rescued us from the airport around noon and drove us to his and Libby's sanctuary at the bottom of the Port Hills. What an oasis; Gordon has a beautiful vegetable garden and the bounty has kept us well fed. Made a delicious tomato and basil soup for lunch which was the best I've ever eaten in my life. The back yard is Libby's creation and it is so lovely...just sitting there and soaking up the sun is heavenly. Later Gordon drove us past the little seaside village of Sumner and up the hill where we got great vistas of the Port hills and towards Godley head. I definitely see the attraction in the Port Hills though early settlers in the Lyttelton harbour found them a pain since they had to traverse them to get their goods to market in Christchurch.
Capped off a lovely but tiring day with a delicious fish casserole and a lovely Savignon Blanc.

Arrive Christchurch 11:20 AM Friday, 12 February - Where we will be visiting Gordon & Libby Ogilvie once more.

13 February, 2010 - 25 km
Outside, in the morning, was immediately met with the smell of jasmine flowers. Intoxicating and a needed sensory detour from bicycle assembly.
Today the bikes went back together, amazingly in less than 2 hours with only one hacksaw moment. Next time all parts will be attached prior to disassembly. Melissa stepped in as mechanics assistant. Gordon acted as taxi for us to supply up for Monday, and then to the Arts center for a perusal of the Saturday market . Our highlight was the discovery of a brass sidewalk plaque commemorating local writers and artists. Last night, reading Gordon's book, "The Port Hills of Christchurch", Mel was struck by these words: "Without the Port Hills giving distinction to is southern skyline, Christchurch would be a scenic disaster area; merely another sprawling metropolis helped out by a cute little river, some nice parks, and a few pieces of neo-Gothic. The hills are its salvation." These were the same words that appeared on Gordon's commemorative plaque.

tea with Gordon at ChCh Arts

Returning home, Melissa was chomping at the bit to get out on the road. A quick ride out to Sumner had us being cheered on and photographed by locals who confused us with competitors in the Coast to Coast cross country bicycle, run, kayak, and bicycle cross country (Arthur's Pass) race competitors. We returned home in 30 C temperature to watch the Opening Ceremonies for the Vancouver hosted 2010 Winter Olympics.

The ceremonies were impressive. A wonderful display of Canadian Art Technology, music, and speeches. The lighting of the cauldron had us and our New Zealand hosts on the edge of our seats, great drama. Makes us proud to be Canadians.

Gordon and Libby's 52 Valentines day - 41 km

Got up early for a ride around the Port Hills following the river at first then out of town on some gorgeous quiet country roads, where we saw sheep, alpaca and lovely looking market gardens. I even managed to wickedly lead Steve up a hill to nowhere so we could get a little hill training before we left.
alpacas

Then headed out the old stage coach road on lovely flat roads to the little town of Tai Tapu.
Got home in time to take Gordon and Libby out for a Valentine's Day brunch where we all enjoyed a hearty New Zealand breakfast.
Back home, we quickly set off for Riccarton, home of one of the early Scottish settlers and site of the annual Scottish festival. We spent a fascinating afternoon watching highland dancing, Scottish country dancing and pipe bands, the most proficient of which was St. Andrew's, Gordon's alma mater.
Hard to keep up with Gordon, with his determined pace and his many friends and acquaintances flagging him down. Gordon has written a history of the Deans, whose homestead is the grounds on which the festival is hosted so, of course, we were regaled with more tales of fascinating Christchurch history.
Had a lovely evening with G&L as wells as daughter Anne and her two daughters who had joined us in the afternoon. They were joined by Anne's husband, Fatih.

Gordon had prepared a "colonial goose" which was really a lamb shoulder, deboned and made to look like a goose.The colonials ate this when goose was rare (or dear) and lamb was in heavy supply!

Leave Christchurch Monday AM, 15 February
ChCh to Greta Valley 84 km

A Mauri blessing. - 122 km

An early start to the day, and a long day at that. The weather was overcast, threatening rain. Gordon told us it was a Mauri blessing to get rained on, a "rich" blessing should it become a downpour. My biggest concern was crossing the Canterbury plains in scorching heat, I need not have worried. The steady drizzle (mostly fine) did nothing to dampen our enthusiasm, actually it spurred us past Greta Valley (where we had great seafood chowder) and on to Cheviot 122 km north of Christchurch. Traffic was heavy leaving Christchurch, but diminished the farther we traveled. After almost 6 hours in the saddle we arrived at Cheviot, staying at a campground that had definitely seen better days.

A word about the weather. New Zealanders are amazingly optimistic about weather but I think I have deciphered the code. Sunny means that the sun may make an appearance through the "long white cloud". "Fine" means probably no rain, but a lot of cloud. "Mostly fine" basically means drizzle all day and "rain" means batten down the hatches, the cyclone is on its way.

16 February
Greta Valley to Pekatea 94 km

Actually Cheviot to Kaikoura (76 km and another little sprint to see the seals ~ 11km) 87 km
The Hunderlees - NZ for Lil' hills

An early start to beat the promised sunshine had us approaching the Hunderlees mid morning. Steve kept stopping for pictures of sheep, cattle and general scenery a delaying tactic meant to rest up for the threatened climbs. It seemed to work as the mountains gradually succumbed to the steady rhythm of our pedaling.
sheep

Most unnerving was the lack of shoulder on the downhill; and worse, a slight shoulder covered in loose gravel. We were rewarded for our efforts with a beautiful (and flat) ride along the coastline to Kaikoura. As we turned into Kaikoura, Melissa spotted a sign to a lookout. Ah, one last attempt to defeat yet another small hill. The challenge was rewarded with a picnic lunch overlooking both the South Beach and Kaikoura proper. WHAT A VIEW!
Kaikoura lookout

What a wind, not to worry the ride to the campsite was all downhill. Once unloaded and the tent set up, traipsed another 11 km to see the seal colony. The seals were okay but the rocks and the vista of the sea and bay definitely made it worth our while. A short walk for groceries ended up in a local restaurant for a fantastic seafood dinner.
So, day two of riding fully loaded and I find it a little wearing. I know we'll get used to it but carrying an extra 40-50 pounds is a little tiring. Both days I've (Mel) come into camp absolutely exhausted. Hopefully, the legs and the lungs will adjust soon.

17 February
Pekatea to Picton 90 km

Another metric? - 107 km

Steve planned the route with 3 rides over 100 km, due to a planning error we would complete two metrics by the end of today, and are still 50 km behind! The Hunderlees took there toll on Steve's system, with the result being his body was not co-operating from the start. A couple of cramps signaled the beginning of the electrolyte battles. After 30 km everything settled into place for the ride. What a fabulous ride along the coast. The ocean continually changed colors from deep blue in the distance to turquoise fading to aquamarine. The constant crashing of the surf competed with the steady drone of the crickets.

This seal colony and rookery was attracting tourists to the pullout along the way. At one point we found ourselves traveling through a tunnel.

Our final challenge for the day would be a pair of 200 m climbs - back to back. Then downhill into Seddon to the backpackers to enjoy a well earned rest inside. The owners calf was next to our room for the afternoon, occasionally bawling for attention or food. Gave us reason to think of Adam's "cow" comment - Melissa putting that to rest by pulling for 95% of the day.
calf

18 February
Wellington - Where we will visit with Marg, Klara and Gabor.

Sprint to Picton - 61 km

An early (6:30) start to beat the wind or heat (whichever comes first!). A good choice as our first climb is the 400 m Weld pass. After the long climb into light (New Zealand light) headwinds we were zipping down the S curves towards Blenheim and our first taste of really bad truck drivers. On the up side the escape route, I mean shoulders, have improved substantially.

We stopped to explore a heritage Cobb house just before entering Blenheim. The Wairau plains are beautiful and were first homesteaded in the 1840s, where homesteaders planted crops, harvested flax (used to make ropes for ships) and grazed sheep. Now, it seems every valley has grapes in it and Marlborough wines have become world reknown. The Cobb house is made of tussock (grass), mud and clay because a fire had wiped out most of the timber in the area. Amazing that the house is still standing after 160 years!
cob

Between Blenheim and Picton the winds picked up enough that our speed on the flats was reduced to 14 kph. Taking turns into this headwind was our only solution, the Wind Warrior Princess using her aerobars to the fullest. At one point the crosswind pushed Melissa from the sideline to the edge of the road. Steve, now suddenly exposed, had his front wheel turn 90* and had to stop before riding into the ditch. Gradually we made it to the last South Island hill and scurried down the other side in time to catch the 10:05 Interislander ferry.

Marlborough Sound Wellington Ferns

With our bicycles secured down by the train cars, we went upstairs to enjoy the Marlborough Sounds views. Upon arrival in Wellington we called Marg for directions. Surprise, surprise we would have to climb up from the ferry and not a small climb either. Off we went with Melissa once more showing Steve how easy it is to climb vertical banks fully loaded.

Once settled in we were driven (back down the hill!!) to a lovely park full of ferns and assorted native shrubbery. Melissa was in her element, Klara was happy to have a playmate as they scampered over the rocks. The play would continue up until Klara was off to bed, giving Marg respite long enough to put together a delicious chicken salad that more than filled the void created by the hill climbing. Gabor arrived home in time to join us for the meal and we visited reviewing our trip and catching up.

NZ 2010 South Island - Christchurch to Picton
NZ 2010, Route 52 Masterton to Napier
NZ 2010, Hawkes bay - Napier to Gisbourne
NZ 2010, East Cape and Rotorua - Gisbourne to Tauranga
NZ 2010, Coromandel Peninsula - Tauranga to Auckland

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